Since ancient times, Bengal has been famous for
its textiles, and while it has been the fine cottons and muslins that have
always been the region’s most prized exports, the Baluchari Silk Saree, with
its elaborate weaves and visual narratives, is a stand-out. The story of this Silk
Saree is closely linked to the history of Bengal.
The name Baluchari came into existence because
the weaving of these Sarees started in a small village called Baluchar in the
Murshidabad district of West Bengal around 500 years ago.
The history of Baluchari Sarees goes back to
1704 CE when Nawab Murshid Quli Khan, the Mughal Governor of Bengal shifted his
capital from Dacca (present day Dhaka in Bangladesh) to Makshudabad (now
Murshidabad in West Bengal). As the Nawab’s court shifted so did the network of
artisans who worked for him. Murshid Quli Khan, brought to the new capital
named after him, a number of weavers from Dacca, who were given their own space
and settled in the village of Baluchar (Now called Jiaganj) located 9 kms from
Murshidabad. The name Baluchari came into existence because the weaving of
these Sarees started in the village Baluchar. Over time these weavers developed
their own style of design that put this village on the world map.
Due to some natural calamities and the
subsequent submerging of the village, the industry and the weaving setup was
then moved to Bishnupur village in Bankura
district. The shift of the weavers from Baluchar to
Bishnupur was also reflected in the Sarees they wove. The Sarees of this phase
were highly influenced by the terracotta temples in this town, that was once
the capital of the Malla Kings and there after the baluchari
industry grew tremendously.
Manufacturing a Baluchari Saree is a time consuming
process. It requires extremely good craftsmanship and takes around a week to
weave one saree. These are hand woven and use the purest of yarns depending on
the material. These sarees were originally woven only using the purest of silk
threads.
Baluchari Saree |
The Baluchari sarees are known for their intricate
designs and handwork on them. No other saree uses as many mythological designs
as the Baluchari sarees. Originally they are dominated by stories and
characters from epics like Ramayana and Mahabharata. These characters give a
royal look to the Baluchari Saree.
The mythological designs make a Baluchari saree
perfect for ceremonial and festive occasions which have a religious touch to
it.
Major
steps are being taken today to revive the once lost tradition of Baluchari
weaving around West Bengal and a big thrust is on making this a high fashion
fabric relevant to younger generations. This seems to be working as the famed
Baluchari once a staple in the wardrobe of zamindar households is making a
comeback in the trousseau of young brides.
No comments:
Post a Comment